His influence when still in his teens in the mid 70s was immense and defined the bold gritstone era. At Hen Cloud Steve Bancroft went for the quantity/quality ticks, Whilst it’s undeniably Pennine gritstone that is home to the bulk of Allen’s contributions in the Seventies his limited (by comparison) efforts elsewhere produced equally impressive results. John Allen obituary and funeral plans. Another partner, as well as Sorenson (whose memorial in California in 1980 Allen traveled to attend), was the longtime climber Dick Cilley.Alan James wrote in UKClimbing: “For many climbers from the 70s and 80s John was a gritstone hero. John Allen has been tragically killed in a climbing accident at Stoney West. Photo: Geoff Birtles Collection.“He was the best on gritstone in his day,” says Geoff Birtles, former editor of the respected British magazine “He was doing very hard technical routes, often with poor protection, and [is] rightly a world contributor.”Taught by Les Gillott, a friend of his father and established climber, John was a wunderkind as a young teen, his debut an early lead of the famed roof route Allen later wrote about the route in the classic compendium His article began, “My ambition was to be better than Allen’s friends and climbing peers included Grimes, Steve Bancroft, Johnny Dawes and many others.Perhaps his best-known route is the first free ascent of the beautiful and celebrated A 1979 visit to Australia with Tobin Sorenson of Southern Californa “blew a few minds,” as the “The chalk dust has finally settled after Tobin Sorenson’s (U.S.A.) and John Allen’s (U.K.) momentous visit.

Around the early Eighties, he even had a spell living and climbing in the USA. While some expedition operators seem intent on running expeditions, others are likely to hold off on restarting trips.“For us it’s important to set up a space where people can see themselves,” says Hiram Trejo, one of the founders of MÁS, a new climbing zine.Catherine Destivelle was a cutting-edge sport climber and competition star in the 1980s, and went on to make her mark with bold solo ascents in the Alps and the Greater Ranges. By Alison Osius | Both Froggatt and Curbar were happy hunting grounds for the Allen new route machine; John was something of a self-confessed romantic climber but his keen interest in technical difficulty – something which he admitted was at odds to his romantic notions – no doubt drove him to some of the more esoteric places as well as the man-made climbing emporiums such as Millstone. For many climbers from the 70s and 80s John was a gritstone hero. Most, but not all, were on the eastern gritstone edges such as Stanage, Froggatt, Curbar and Cratcliffe. Although the routes he added during his second tranche of gritstone development were (generally) equal in quality to his earlier offerings they weren’t quite the stand-out gob-smacking, cutting edge standard that had been typical of his earlier routes. Privacy Notice: Our site uses cookies for advertising, analytics and to improve our sites and services. Standing, from left: Tom Proctor, Jill Lawrence, John Kingston, Mike Papworth, Royal Robbins (tending to a young Tamara Robbins), and Chris Vandiver (facing away).

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