The tube chock for wide cracks and the Crack N Up for tiny cracks soon followed. 10 pts - 10 each They revolutionized clean climbing, as they were quicker to place and remove than nuts, and were easily used in parallel-sided cracks, and were even safe in slightly outward and downward flaring cracks. Besides the obvious economic benefit, this enabled climbers to carry fewer pitons on multi-pitch routes. No responsible climbers today carry pitons for cragging—they are used primarily for big-wall climbing, mostly on aid, and as free protection in limited cases.Erickson's pitons (front right) from his earlier climbing days, before he swore them off in favor of protection that would not damage the rock.Steel, hexagonal machine nuts, with the threads filed out and a short loop of thin nylon rope tied through them, were used for protection in Britain in the 1950s. None yet. Many climbers still use mittens to this day. However, in January 1972, for the purpose of preventing the body movement of a lead climber pulling a wired nut up and out, I came up with the idea of two carabiners pre-fixed to a very short piece of 5/8 inch webbing. Cams have taken over for all larger cracks.Cams Nuts don’t work well in soft rock, horizontal cracks, or parallel cracks.

Today, nuts are still widely used—and feature such advents as ultralight nuts and offsets—but only in cracks smaller than about one-half inch. We each had different ways of using the holds and fed off each other's successes. He was very engaging. By 1947, the best pitons were made of stronger steel, were exterior-plated to increase longevity, and were now able to be knocked out of a crack to be reused a few times. Larger webbing (2” seatbelt or tubular) was used starting in the mid-70s as a more comfortable swami belt, sometimes in conjunction with a pair of tied, homemade leg loops. Mike Mills A rock climber in 1970, attempting a free ascent of Yellow Spur or the Naked Edge in Eldorado Springs Canyon, Colorado, would get out of his car in a pair of Kletterschuhe … The solution was a device that cammed and expanded. The only climbing the three of us did together was trying to work out how to get started up "Crack-a-go-go." Jim Erickson demonstrating free and clean climbing on his route Blind Faith (5.10b) in Eldorado Canyon in 2008.

The only exceptions were in some parts of Great Britain, Australia, and Germany/Czech Republic.

The new rubber was significantly stickier than previous compounds, upping one’s ability by letter or even number grades. 0 pts - 1 each Nylon climbing ropes had been used in the 1950s and ‘60s, making leader falls significantly safer than on traditional, relatively static, Manila hemp ropes. When Art and Jim Erickson were in the Valley in 1974, I got to know him a little. Jim Erickson in Eldorado Canyon, CO, in 2020, demo’ing gear from 1970. The only exception was a stiff edging shoe sold by Chouinard and called Shoe-nards, excellent for tiny holds on dead-vertical walls.The major breakthrough in shoe rubber was made by Boreal in 1982 with the Firé, the first of the “sticky-rubber” shoes. The first commercially available harness in America was made by Bill Forrest in 1968.

“Hey, Jim,” Hugh said, pretending to have a phone conversation, “this is Hugh Herr. By 1966 several Eastern and Mid-Western climbers and boulderers followed his example. Today, a climber can buy a 70-meter 8.6mm rope that handles better, has less rope drag, and is lighter, stronger, and safer than the 1970 ropes; you can also buy ropes that have been dry treated, to make them less permeable to moisture.Erickson was instrumental in the clean climbing revolution, selling his pitons in 1971 in favor of nuts and then refusing to climb with partners who did not follow the same ethic.Flat nylon webbing had also been used for some time. 0 pts - 5 each

We climbed in Boulder, Estes Park, Tahquitz, and Yosemite in early 1972 and seemed to be the only ones. When the swami belt came along, the climber then tied a bowline into the swami, which offered a slightly better cushioning in a fall or when hanging on tension on an aid climb. These remained popular through the late 1980s, when specifically-manufactured, grippy rubber knee and elbow pads (from caving?) These were imported from Europe and were comfortable enough for hiking (since they would be worn all day) and yet, hopefully, tight enough to stand on small holds. A few of us in America sent away to the UK for these, and carried a couple to supplement our racks of pitons for versatility. Today’s lightest harnesses weigh mere ounces, with advents like pre-threaded buckles, wear indicators, and so on. were utilized.

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